‘Every Culinary Artist Should Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on Roll of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. But, situated prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble place securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.

Bradley Ford
Bradley Ford

Eleanor Hart is a UK-based minimalist and wellness coach dedicated to helping others find clarity through simplicity.